Thank you so much 😊

Hello Carl, Can I take it you aren’t DIYing this? If you are, then it would be worth a try at just ‘bleeding’ the MC before trying to bleed the whole system. Fill the MC and slacken the union on the output. Wrap this area in a rag and get an assistant to depress and hold the pedal down. Tighten union, allow pedal to return, and repeat until you get a really good squirt out of the union. Tighten union with pedal down, ensure cylinder is full and commence bleeding in the normal manner. Obviously observe all precautions with expelled brake fluid, rag and paintwork. Might work! Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

I no it's a long time since u posted but did U find a way to drain the adblue? Fingers crossed you can help me 😊

As for remapping, all I know is that the DPF was removed a long time ago by the previous owner. The EGR, on the other hand, was removed by my mechanic because there was some issue, something sounded off. That said, I continued driving safely for another year or two afterward without any problems, so I don't really believe that's the cause. It's possible the issue is a failed PCV valve, I’ll definitely ask my mechanic whether that's been checked. I should also mention that the car runs completely normally at idle, with no issues at all. The problem only shows up at higher RPMs, where it goes into safe mode and shuts off. The DPF has been fully removed, there's no DPF on the car anymore. It was taken out many years ago by the previous owner, and I've driven it for years since then without any issues from that. Here's some additional information that might help clarify the problem further: Turbo: Mechanic replaced it with another one, didn't fix the issue. Found turbo was quite clogged and one vane slightly loose, but not the actual cause. Fuel drain #1: Mechanic first drained all fuel, suspected it. I was using premium diesel (with additives) on gas station. Mechanic said it didn't smell right, suspected gas station's mix. I compared smell to another diesel car (strong) vs. my own (similar but weaker, I assumed normal due to additives). Tank fill: Had half a tank, topped up the other half when that happened I used premium diesel last 3 fill-ups, regular diesel the 10 before that. One man that I know that works for this gas station company told me they blend fuel with bio-waste, and older cars can be sensitive to it, possibly the cause Drained fuel was brownish, premium diesel is normally clear I am not sure but I think I heard fuel sloshing/waving in the tank twice, never noticed this before Mechanic advised against official Audi service, because my EGR and DPF were removed, so the car's computer can't properly diagnose without reinstalling them If I+m going to sell for parts, mechanic said that I will get few hundred euros if I’m going to sell the car for parts, rest gets scrapped/pressed. I checked market price for a working one: ~€5000 in Croatia. I asked mechanic what to do, he said leave it with him, he'd fix it somehow. Months later, car still untouched, sitting outside A guy with a laptop was at the mechanic shop and found one injector slightly weak (not broken), my mechanic never tried to replaced it My mechanic suspected gasoline was put in by mistake, gas station confirmed only premium diesel was used (correct fuel) at that date and that time. I later re-suspected fuel, sent a sample for lab testing, emailed/called the gas station, got no results Mechanic initially claimed he saw black smoke from the exhaust Runs fine at idle, no issues. Once driven, especially overtaking or higher RPM, it goes into safe mode and shuts off Mechanic said disconnecting a certain part makes the car run great, but it can't be left disconnected permanently Friend #1: Thinks it could be the injector Friend #2: Suggests finding a mechanic specialized in electronics, thinks that's the real issue.

Having a lot of problems with the braking system on my 2009 2.0tdi 8pa, upgraded to s3 front calipers and discs with HEL braided lines, replaced all rear solid and flexi brake lines and both rear calipers brand new master cylinder and brand new abs pump, after bleeding (pressure bleed and pedal bleed and Vcds bleed) pedal is still very soft and gradually goes to the floor. The brakes do work and the car stops but it won’t pass an MOT the way that the pedal is just now, the front calipers are on the correct sides and the nipples are at the top. Checked for leaks etc not a drop of fluid anywhere. Anyone have any ideas I’ve been having this problem for months after changing all parts I was told it needed the MC so got that done then was told that didn’t fix it so got the abs pump done too and again pedal is just the exact same