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  1. As for remapping, all I know is that the DPF was removed a long time ago by the previous owner. The EGR, on the other hand, was removed by my mechanic because there was some issue, something sounded off. That said, I continued driving safely for another year or two afterward without any problems, so I don't really believe that's the cause. It's possible the issue is a failed PCV valve, I’ll definitely ask my mechanic whether that's been checked. I should also mention that the car runs completely normally at idle, with no issues at all. The problem only shows up at higher RPMs, where it goes into safe mode and shuts off. The DPF has been fully removed, there's no DPF on the car anymore. It was taken out many years ago by the previous owner, and I've driven it for years since then without any issues from that. Here's some additional information that might help clarify the problem further: Turbo: Mechanic replaced it with another one, didn't fix the issue. Found turbo was quite clogged and one vane slightly loose, but not the actual cause. Fuel drain #1: Mechanic first drained all fuel, suspected it. I was using premium diesel (with additives) on gas station. Mechanic said it didn't smell right, suspected gas station's mix. I compared smell to another diesel car (strong) vs. my own (similar but weaker, I assumed normal due to additives). Tank fill: Had half a tank, topped up the other half when that happened I used premium diesel last 3 fill-ups, regular diesel the 10 before that. One man that I know that works for this gas station company told me they blend fuel with bio-waste, and older cars can be sensitive to it, possibly the cause Drained fuel was brownish, premium diesel is normally clear I am not sure but I think I heard fuel sloshing/waving in the tank twice, never noticed this before Mechanic advised against official Audi service, because my EGR and DPF were removed, so the car's computer can't properly diagnose without reinstalling them If I+m going to sell for parts, mechanic said that I will get few hundred euros if I’m going to sell the car for parts, rest gets scrapped/pressed. I checked market price for a working one: ~€5000 in Croatia. I asked mechanic what to do, he said leave it with him, he'd fix it somehow. Months later, car still untouched, sitting outside A guy with a laptop was at the mechanic shop and found one injector slightly weak (not broken), my mechanic never tried to replaced it My mechanic suspected gasoline was put in by mistake, gas station confirmed only premium diesel was used (correct fuel) at that date and that time. I later re-suspected fuel, sent a sample for lab testing, emailed/called the gas station, got no results Mechanic initially claimed he saw black smoke from the exhaust Runs fine at idle, no issues. Once driven, especially overtaking or higher RPM, it goes into safe mode and shuts off Mechanic said disconnecting a certain part makes the car run great, but it can't be left disconnected permanently Friend #1: Thinks it could be the injector Friend #2: Suggests finding a mechanic specialized in electronics, thinks that's the real issue.
  2. Having a lot of problems with the braking system on my 2009 2.0tdi 8pa, upgraded to s3 front calipers and discs with HEL braided lines, replaced all rear solid and flexi brake lines and both rear calipers brand new master cylinder and brand new abs pump, after bleeding (pressure bleed and pedal bleed and Vcds bleed) pedal is still very soft and gradually goes to the floor. The brakes do work and the car stops but it won’t pass an MOT the way that the pedal is just now, the front calipers are on the correct sides and the nipples are at the top. Checked for leaks etc not a drop of fluid anywhere. Anyone have any ideas I’ve been having this problem for months after changing all parts I was told it needed the MC so got that done then was told that didn’t fix it so got the abs pump done too and again pedal is just the exact same
  3. Hi any idea what was mapped, the coil light is emissions related, in view of the milage of the engine it could be a ruptured PCV valve which would clog the turbo have you checked the ash and soot levels on the DPF. Steve.
  4. Hi cliffcoggin, a blocked exhaust could well be part of it, though I'm not certain. The only blockage my mechanic actually found was in the turbo, it was full of soot and quite clogged. That surprised me a bit, though, since even though it's a diesel, I drive it hard on the motorway every day, so clogging seems unlikely. It would make more sense if I'd mostly been doing city driving, but that's not the case. I also don't have a DPF, so that shouldn't be a factor either.
  5. Hi Steve, Thanks for getting back to me. As for fault codes, the only thing I remember was a coil-shaped warning light that came up on the dashboard, which then disappeared on its own. It happened once before, about a year ago (not sure if it's related). I was doing 200 km/h on the motorway in a car that only has 115 hp, so I was pushing well over 3000 RPM for around 40 minutes straight. The car suddenly lost power and wouldn't let me go past 110 km/h. That time, turning the engine off and back on fixed it – after about half an hour everything was working normally again. But as I've said, not sure if this is related. I don't think it's the mapping, since that was done by the previous owner more than 5 years ago. If it were a mapping issue, I'd expect it to show up straight away, not five years later. Thanks Sandi

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